Gravel Trail Through Kociewie: From Gdańsk to Starogard Gdański and the Trąbki Wielkie Hills

The morning air in Gdańsk smells of damp moraine forest and a crisp chill that fades as the morning sun climbs higher. As the tires roll through the first kilometers south of the Tricity, urban traffic swiftly recedes into silence. Ahead lie 117 kilometers of open space—a route leading deep into Kociewie, an undulating region of gentle hills, meandering rivers, and historic country roads flanked by ancient oak trees. The objective is Starogard Gdański, followed by a scenic return traversing the terminal moraines around Skarszewy and Trąbki Wielkie.

The initial kilometers descend smoothly from the moraine plateau toward Pruszcz Gdański. The descent at kilometer 5 delivers effortless momentum—cool headwind refreshes while wide Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 700x45c tubeless tires roll silently and predictably over smooth tarmac. Entering the Radunia River valley, the terrain levels out, crisscrossed by drainage canals and winding river meanders. Low morning light highlights dew-covered meadows, weeping willows, and historic brick hydrotechnical structures in Pruszcz.

Beyond Pruszcz, the route steers towards Gołębiewo Wielkie. Highway hum vanishes, replaced by quiet rural lanes and the first sections of hardpack gravel. The Rose Backroad AL GRX 400 absorbs minor trail chatter with ease thanks to its carbon fork and supple rubber. Near kilometer 25, a short but punchy kicker kicks up to 10%. It serves as an ideal warm-up climb, rewarded by sweeping views across rolling rapeseed fields and patches of mature woodland.

Through Bojary and Trzcińsk, the track meanders among sleepy hamlets. Red-brick Pomeranian cottages border the road, while gardens carry scents of lilacs and damp earth. A quick pause by a weathered roadside cross offers a moment to take in skylarks singing over open fields before rolling through Kokoszkowy directly toward the historic capital of Kociewie.

Starogard Gdański welcomes riders at kilometer 58 with its church towers and the gentle flow of the Wierzyca River. The route leads onto the cobbled Market Square, enclosed by eclectic townhouses. As one of the oldest settlements in Pomerania, it displays centuries of merchant heritage. A brief stop near the town hall allows a close look at the ancient defensive bastions—the Gdańsk Bastion and Corner Bastion. Green riverside promenades along the Wierzyca offer an inviting spot to take a quick break out of the saddle.

Leaving Starogard via Chopina Street, the track turns northwest across rural Linowiec. The gravel surface shifts between compacted dirt and fine crushed stone. Wide 45 mm tires inspire confidence, holding pace smoothly without traction loss. After a dozen kilometers, the trail reaches Skarszewy, an atmospheric town set above the Wietcisa River.

Skarszewy charms with its quiet character. Stopping near Rzeczna Street around kilometer 73, it pays to step off the pedals and stroll to the 14th-century Knights Hospitaller Castle. Cobblestone alleyways, remaining town walls, and views over the river valley below evoke a serene, timeless rural Pomeranian atmosphere.

Beyond Skarszewy lies the most physically demanding yet scenic section of the journey. Crossing into Kamierowskie Piece and the Trąbki Wielkie district, the terrain transitions from gentle riverside flats into deep ravines and glacial moraine ridges. The road climbs steadily through dense mixed forests filled with the scent of pine needles.

The high point arrives at kilometer 82.6, where GPS computers register 163 m a.s.l.—the peak elevation of the loop. An open crest exposes a panoramic vista: quilted farm fields, dark forest canopies, and white gravel roads stretching into the distance. The breeze up here is fresh and constant. Leaning the bike against a wooden fence post provides a well-earned chance to take in the dramatic glacial topography of Pomerania.

The descent toward Czerniewo and Warcz offers pure gravel flow. Twisting trails descend beneath canopy corridors, while the Rose Backroad tracks smoothly over loose patches. Shimano GRX hydraulic disc brakes ensure precise modulation on steeper downhill segments ahead of sharp bends.

The final quarter traverses Lisewiec and Lublewo Gdańskie. Over 800 meters of cumulative climbing begin to register in the legs, yet the late afternoon sun casting long golden shadows provides renewed energy. The route follows the rim of steep ravines bordering the Kashubian Lake District, where light filters through tall beech and oak groves.

At Jankowo Gdańskie, the road reconnects with urban infrastructure, entering Gdańsk along Jabłoniowa Street. A final spin over tarmac concludes the 117.4 km loop. After five hours and twenty minutes of moving time, returning to city traffic feels like arriving from a remote, serene realm of pristine Pomeranian countryside.

• ↳ Starogard Gdański Market Square & Fortifications: The historical center of Kociewie featuring a 14th-century grid layout, the historic Gdańsk Bastion, and green embankments along the Wierzyca River.
• ↳ Knights Hospitaller Castle in Skarszewy: Remains of a 14th-century stronghold built by the Order of St. John, standing on an escarpment overlooking the Wietcisa.
• ↳ Trąbki Wielkie Moraine Panorama (163 m a.s.l.): Natural glacial culmination at kilometer 82, presenting sweeping panoramic views over the rolling Pomeranian landscape.
• ↳ Wietcisa River Valley: A picturesque stretch between Skarszewy and Kamierowskie Piece, where gravel roads parallel a swift, near-submontane riverbed.

• ↳ Espresso Stop & Fuel: An early pit stop took place at Bar Sai-Gon in Pruszcz Gdański at Grunwaldzka 40A (km 19.8), spending 17 minutes refueling with hot food before hitting Kociewie's climbs. Additional quick replenishment points along the route include roadside stop 222 in Bojary (km 45.4), Spacerowa in Kamierowskie Piece (km 79.0), and kiosks on Ordynacka in Jankowo Gdańskie and Jabłoniowa in Gdańsk.
• ↳ Water & Resupply: Convenient grocery stops are available in Starogard Gdański center (km 58.6) and the Skarszewy market square (km 73.8). Sheltered benches can be found along the Wierzyca recreational path in Starogard and inside the Kolbudy Forest District on the return leg.
• ↳ Tire & Bike Setup: A gravel or all-road bike with 40–45 mm tires running low tubeless pressures (Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M or similar) offers the optimal balance of road speed and loose gravel traction.
• ↳ Navigation: The route features multiple quick direction changes across rural junctions and forest forks. Downloading the GPX track to a cycling computer or phone is highly advised.