Kashubian Gravel and Ancient Barrows: Gravel Loop from Stężyca to the Stone Circles in Węsiory

Morning air across the Kashubian Lake District smells of damp moss, fresh-cut pine, and the crisp chill rising from post-glacial ribbon lakes. Unclipping the bike from the rack in Stężyca at daybreak, the glassy surface of nearby Lake Upper Raduńskie lay motionless under lingering mist. Kashubian Landscape Park possesses an ancient character – undulating moraine ridges, dense pine-spruce woodlands, and gouged subglacial channels sculpt a terrain so energetic it is hard to believe the Baltic Sea coastline is just an hour away. The mission today went beyond logging sweet gravel miles: it was about venturing into a sanctuary steeped in northern antiquity – the enigmatic Gothic barrows and stone circles at Węsiory.

Ahead lay just over 40 kilometers of pure adventure riding. Camera tucked into the pack, fresh lemon water in the bidons, and legs primed for rolling moraine climbs. This loop delivers the essence of gravel exploration: no needless rush, just constant curiosity around every woodland turn.

The initial kilometers allowed for a progressive warm-up. Tarmac lead south from Stężyca, winding between tidy homesteads where ornate woodwork reminds travelers of Kashubian heritage. Motor traffic was practically nonexistent. Beyond the village edge, asphalt gave way to a broad, hard-packed gravel track cutting a pale ribbon straight into pine woods. The patter of loose stones against the downtube and the rhythmic hum of Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M 700x45c tires over the surface settled me into that calm, meditative rhythm unique to gravel touring.

Morning light filtered across towering treetops, striping the trail with gold. The road rolled gently, encouraging bursts of power over short rises. Around kilometer 10, the trail brushed past a forest settlement near Dubowo. Quiet woods, clean woodland air, and a timber shelter tempted me into an early pause. At the Dubowo rest point, I leaned the bike against a pine trunk for four minutes, sipping water and soaking in birdsong. Far from metropolitan bustle, Kashubia operates on a calmer clock.

Rejoining the track toward Niesiołowice, the gravel turned exceptionally fast: solid beneath the tread, with only occasional rain-washed sand ribbons easily absorbed by wide tubeless casings. Moraine topography quickly exerted itself – descents demanded full focus, with Shimano GRX BR-RX400 hydraulic brakes offering dialed control into blind bends shaded by mature beeches. Another brief stop in Niesiołowice at kilometer 17 offered a peaceful glimpse of rural Poland, seemingly frozen in time.

Past Niesiołowice, the trail swings northwest toward the day's cultural highlight: Węsiory. Tucked beneath ancient canopy beside Lake Długie lies one of Central Europe's most intriguing archaeological treasures. Nearing the boundary, I passed the '7 / chram' tavern on Jeziorna Street. Lingering for five minutes, the air was scented with brewed coffee, seasoned timber, and local herbs – carrying an evocative Slavic-Scandinavian aura.

Stashing the bike at the gate, I entered the Węsiory Stone Circles Archaeological Reserve. The scene is captivating: towering erratic boulders arranged in precise rings rise amid the pines, enclosing burial barrows constructed nearly two millennia ago. These sacred monuments were left behind by the Goths and Gepids during their 1st- and 2nd-century migrations from Scandinavia toward the Black Sea. Wandering between moss-covered stones reveals a calm solemnity. Scholars believe these circles served as burial grounds, tribal assembly courts (things), and perhaps rudimentary astronomical markers aligned with celestial cycles.

Returning to the machine on Osiedlowa Street, the cycling contrast was striking: one minute touching stones contemporaneous with the Roman Empire, the next clicking cleats back in to tackle steep moraine ridges.

Immediately after leaving Węsiory, easy spinning ceased. The route encountered its steepest physical challenge: an abrupt ramp between kilometers 20 and 22. A punchy 300-meter wall kicking up to 16% snapped me straight out of reverie. This called for raw traction: the alloy Rose Backroad AL and its 30T front chainring matched to a 36T rear cog kept cadence spinning steadily. Deep tread hooked into loose rock, transferring every watt efficiently to the ground.

That effort was richly rewarded. At kilometer 26.5, the loop reached its high point: 216 m a.s.l. Dense trees gave way to an expansive expanse of rolling fields and open pastures. Down in the folds of the landscape, blue water gleamed from hidden lakes, with the forested crest of the Szymbark Hills stretching along the distant horizon. Standing beside the agricultural road in the crisp breeze, one understands why locals call this region Kashubian Switzerland. The elevation figures may not rival the Alps, but the sudden terrain relief and sweeping vistas are truly striking.

Descending from the crest delivered pure gravel flow. The wide dirt track swooped down long arcs back toward Stężyca. Speed quickly eclipsed 45 km/h, the bike's 12 mm thru-axles tracking true through ruts and washboard sections.

The closing quarter offered easier spinning. At kilometer 31, the route returned to Stężyca for a relaxed 13-minute break along Jana III Sobieskiego Street. It is an ideal spot to refuel, check the map, and enjoy an energy bar. Stężyca sits between two major bodies of water: Lake Upper Raduńskie and Lake Stężyckie. Dropping down toward the marina and lakeside promenade revealed sailboats slicing through deep blue water.

Rather than finishing early, the track traces an extra scenic loop out toward Gołubie. The roadway borders aged oaks and linden trees casting long afternoon shadows across the asphalt. A final three-minute pause at the Lieutenant Józef Dambek memorial shelter in Gołubie offered a quiet tribute to the commander of the WWII 'Kashubian Griffin' resistance fighters who once took refuge in these vast forests.

The final stretch delivered flat, effortless cruising into the start hub. The computer clicked over to 40.9 km as the golden sun dipped low, warming the treetops in amber light. This ride delivered the complete package: steep wall climbs, serene forest speed, ancient archaeological lore, and the sweeping open horizon of northern Poland.

• ↳ Węsiory Stone Circles Archaeological Reserve (km 20.4): A rare Central European historical site. Features four well-preserved stone rings and multiple barrows built by Gothic and Gepid tribes between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD. Located in pine woodland right on the shores of Lake Długie. Lock your bike at the gate and spend at least 30 minutes exploring the interpretive trail on foot.
• ↳ Moraine Viewpoint near Węsiory (km 26.5): An open crest sitting at 216 m a.s.l. The route emerges from dense woodland onto an agricultural ridge, revealing one of the finest panoramic sweeps in the Kashubian Lake District. Clear days showcase a patchwork of forests, farmland, and ribbon lakes.
• ↳ Lake Upper Raduńskie & Stężyca Marina (km 31.7): A glacial ribbon lake forming part of the famous Raduńskie Circle water trail. Stężyca's waterfront features an open-air amphitheater, walking pier, and lakeside snack bars framed by surrounding hills.
• ↳ Gołubie Botanical Garden (near km 39.2): Situated just a short hop off the route in Gołubie, this private botanical sanctuary shelters over 6,000 plant species, including rare regional Kashubian flora. Worth a quick detour if your schedule permits.

• ↳ Coffee Stops & Local Flavor: The standout stop along the trail is 7 / chram (km 20.4, Jeziorna Street in Węsiory, right before the reserve entrance). Ideal for hot coffee, cold beverages, and hearty snacks in an atmosphere paying homage to old regional lore. Earlier in the ride, the woodland rest area in Dubowo (km 10.5) is great for a self-supported energy bar break.
• ↳ Water Points & Rest Areas: Resupply drinks and snacks in local convenience stores in Stężyca (at the start and km 31) or in Węsiory. Covered trail shelters are positioned at the Węsiory reserve trailhead and along Stężyca's lakefront promenade.
• ↳ Recommended Bike and Tires: Best tackled on a gravel bike or light hardtail mountain bike. Given changing surfaces from fast tarmac to hard gravel and soft forest sand, 40–45 mm tires equipped with versatile tread (such as the Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M) offer the sweet spot between rolling efficiency and grip.
• ↳ Navigation and GPX File: Forestry lanes around Niesiołowice and Węsiory form a dense labyrinth where mobile signal can drop out. Load the GPX route onto your GPS bike computer before departure to ensure seamless turns.